Showing posts with label lemons. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lemons. Show all posts

Sunday, February 06, 2011

Roasted Parsnip & Escarole Salad

After 4 weeks of 100% raw, I have started reintroducing cooked foods - and decided I want to stay more "high raw" for the next 3 months.   I picked up a Mystery Box from Mariquita last week - had some incredible Castelfranco & Treviso radicchio, and two large heads of escarole.  I made a great big romaine & radicchio salad last night - but it only reminded me how much I dearly love seared or grilled radicchio (and other bitter greens).

So, for tonight's dinner - I roasted the ginormous parsnip that came in the box and put together a delicious salad, inspired by a recipe provided by Julia in the newsletter, but modified (as always).  Feel free to take inspiration and make your own version!

Roasted Parsnip & Escarole Salad

Ingredients:
  • 1 large parsnip, scrubbed, chopped into 1" pieces (remove fibrous center near large end if necessary)
  • 1/4 c lemon juice
  • 1 small handful of parsley (enough for 1/4-1/3 chopped)
  • 2 tsp mustard
  • 2 Tb white wine vinegar
  • 1.5 c sourdough croutons (stale sourdough bread cut into 1.5" chunks works, too!)
  • 1 cup small cremini or shitaki mushrooms, halved
  • 1/4 c small capers
  • 3-4 stems of green garlic
  • 1 bunch of chinese garlic
  • 1 large head of escarole, coarsely chopped, washed & spun dry, 4-6 leaves escarole (also coarse chopped)
  • 1/3 c kalamata olives - or - grapes - halved
  • 1/3 c pine nuts
  • Olive oil
  • Salt & pepper
DIRECTIONS
  1.  Toss the parsnip pieces with olive oil to coat, sprinkle with salt & pepper, toss, arrange in single layer on cookie sheet or large cast iron skillet and roast at 400 till tender & chewy.  Remove from heat when done.
  2. In cuisinart or blender, combine parsley, lemon, mustard, vinegar and 2-3 Tb of olive oil (take it easy here because there's plenty of olive oil coming up!)  - reserve in a dish or measuring cup once fully blended & thickened.
  3. In a large cast iron skillet, toss the croutons to coat with olive oil and toast well.  Put aside.
  4. Add mushrooms to hot skillet and sear - don't let them get too soft!  Add capers, green garlic & chinese garlic.  Once the garlic & parsnips have gotten bright grene, add parsnips and toss to warm - transfer to another dish and reserve.
  5. Put your chopped escarole in the skillet, drizzle with olive oil, a pinch of salt & pepper.  Cook on high heat -- keep it moving by tossing gently with wooden spoons - just to wilting.
  6. Toss escarole, reserved veggies, dressing, pine nuts, croutons and olives/grapes (depending on whether you are in a salty/sweet mood).
Yum!

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Squash, pears & lemons!

This morning I started to feel a return to the normal rhythms of summer after being laid up following knee surgery - yeah, I sure know how to have fun!  My friend James gifted me some giant squash last weekend and I admit - I blinked - some of my cocozelle got really enormous.  But having 20# of overgrown squash in the kitchen doesn't present enough of a challeng.

This morning, I borrowed a friend's truck and headed off to pick pears & lemons at someone's house in Kensington.  The pears are small and green, falling easily off the tree - none are really ripe yet so I don't know how they will taste.  The lemons were offered while I was busy picking pears - and they are round, soft ripe Meyer lemons that smell positively gorgeous.

On the way home, I stopped at the Temescal Farmer's Market and ran into Asiya from ForageOakland - I hustled her to the parking lot to load her bag with pears & lemons - we had a nice chat about her blog (go check it out!) and caught up a bit.   James took a few pears and lemons on Sunday, and more are promised to Veronika later this week.  Time to go plan some preserving projects & check in on my garden!

Monday, July 12, 2010

Crunchy-Crispy Kale & Fennel Salad

It's a fact that kale is one of the most nutritious foods you can eat - it provides both a high level of nutrition AND a high level of satiation/satisfaction for very few calories. Raw kale provides a powerhouse punch of Vitamin A and Vitamin C, as well as carotenoids and chlorophylls.  Want to make your body happy? Make this delicious salad - you can make up a big batch of it and it will keep in the refrigerator for several days!

Ingredients:
  • 1 large bunch lacinato or dino kale (remove stem & chiffonade to 1/8", give a few coarse cross-chops)
  • 1/2 large red bell pepper, thinly sliced & cut into 1" pieces
  • 1/2 large red onion, finely sliced and coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 large fennel bulb (or 1 small - to your taste!), thinly sliced & coarsely chopped
  • 1/4-1/2 c Meyer lemon juice
  • fresh rosemary & oregano to taste, finely minced
  • 2-5 cloves garlic, pressed or very finely minced
  • 1/4 c capers, rinsed & coarsely chopped
  • 1/4 c pitted kalamata or nicoise olives, coarsely chopped (optional)
  • extra virgin olive oil to taste
  • fresh ground black pepper to taste
Instructions:
Really, all the work here is in chopping up the vegetables.  Once you have the vegetables in the bowl, add a small handful of coarsely chopped capers (rinsed!) and olives.  Drizzle with the lemon and olive oil, toss to coat, add chopped herbs and pepper to taste.  If you are storing it in the fridge, remember to toss it every so often to move veggies down to the small puddle of dressing in the bottom of the bowl.  This salad keeps very well for several days and is very satisfying!

A quick visit to a nutritional calculator provided a rough estimate that this entire salad is about 600 calories - less if you use less than 4 Tb olive oil!

This post is currently featured guest post on Dog Island Farm!

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Shaker Lemon Pie

Meyer lemons are going crazy right now - they are everywhere!  Instead of the basic zest & juice for freezer, lemon bars & lemonade, I wanted to try something different.  I read some recipes for Shaker Lemon Pie - standard recipe for a double crust pie is - macerate 2 thinly sliced lemons (no seeds) in 2 cups of sugar for several hours or overnight, put the drained lemons into the pie crust and beat 2 eggs into the sugary syrup - pour on top and bake.

Since the East Bay Vegan Bake Sale was coming up - I wanted to  do something with these gorgeous lemons and put together three versions of the pie.



INGREDIENTS & PROCESS:
  • 2-3 Meyer lemons, depending on size - slice thinly, removing seeds as you go, place into a bowl and cover with
  • 2 cups of granulated sugar
Stir the lemon slices & sugar - keep stirring it every hour or so to ensure the sugar is totally dissolved.  It's ok to leave it overnight - I left it on the counter with a lid on the container. 

  • Strain lemons from sugary syrup and lay out in the pie crust


  • Add 1/3 c of arrowroot and 2 Tb agar flakes to the sugar - beat very well and pour over the lemons in the pie shell.


  • BAKE in preheated oven at 400 for 15 minutes, then reduce to 350 for 35-45 minutes. 
Depending on the agar & arrowroot, you may have a more firm or more loose pie filling - I had one pie come out with a very firm almost jelly like consistency and another that was a loose marmelade consistency.  Both were very good - but one was easier to slice & eat!

  • Deliver to your bake sale!

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Lemon Chutney - 2009 (redux)!

LEMON CHUTNEY:  You won't believe this but... the last two batches of lemon chutney spontaneously combusted.  *poof* gone.  Just like that.  Tasted really good, though.  So, I am making two more batches of lemon chutney.


Directions for 32-36 large lemons:
  1. Lemons, pt 1: 
    • Microplane or zest lemons (finely mince zest if necessary)
    • Supreme and section, reserving the seeds and discarding all pith and membrane.
  2. Combine zest with lemon pulp into glass or earthenware container (my grandmother's Hull beanpot works great for this, you might use a tagine or Pyrex covered dish) with 8 T of sea salt. Let sit overnight or several hours The lemon pulp will release plenty of juice!
  3. The next day, strain the salty lemon pulp and zest, reserving the liquid. Divide evenly by weight using a kitchen scale (this was 4#  of pulp and zest in my case, with 2 c of juice), and put into two separate pots. 
  4. Divide reserved juice evenly by volume into the two pots.  Squeeze enough lemons to bring you up to 2 cups of lemon juice, if necessary (don't forget to zest the lemons, first and chuck that in as well.



    Sweet(er)

    • 2 lb lemon zest & pulp
    • 1 c fresh lemon juice
    • 1 c cider vinegar
    • 3 T finely minced fresh ginger

    • 2 oz minced garlic  
    • 1 c raisins
    • 8 oz chopped sweet red pepper
    • .5 large white or yellow onion, chopped
    • 1/2 - 3/4 c chopped dried apricots
    • 2 c unrefined sugar (without molasses)
    • 2 c sucanat or brown sugar

    • Grind in spice grinder & add to pot 1 tsp each: hulled green cardamom, coriander, whole clove, whole allspice, fenugreek seed, yellow mustard seed
    Lemon & Sweet Red Pepper


    • 2 lb lemon zest & pulp
    • 1 c fresh lemon juice
    • 1 c cider vinegar
    • 3 T finely minced fresh ginger

    • 2.5 oz minced garlic
    • 1 c raisins
    • 16 oz chopped sweet red pepper
    • 1.5 large white or yellow onion, chopped
    • 1 lb sucanat (about 3 c)
    • 2 t cayenne pepper flakes


    • Grind in spice grinder & add to pot 1 tsp each: hulled green cardamom, white pepper, coriander, fenugreek, black mustard




  5. Put seeds into cheesecloth if there were a significant amount - otherwise, don't worry - it's a chutney and you don't need a ton of pectin to set it like a jam or jelly.
  6. Cook everything for 60 minutes or so until it reaches the right consistency.
  7. Remove cheesecloth with lemon seeds. Let sit overnight. Taste, adjust seasonings or ingredients (additional lemon juice, more ginger or chili, for example).
  8. Heat up, taste again, when satisfied, put into clean, hot mason jars and hot water bath can.

Yield: TBD

SWEET & FRUITY LEMON CHUTNEY
8 - 4 oz jars sweet lemon chutney
3 - 8 oz jars sweet lemon chutney

LEMON & SWEET RED PEPPER CHUTNEY
9 - 4 oz jars lemon & sweet red pepper chutney
4 - 8 oz jars lemon & sweet red pepper chutney

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Lemon Chutney - 2009!

LEMON CHUTNEY: Despite using a microplane, I was still up til 2:30 zesting and supreming lemons.  Refinements on last recipes, below.


Directions for 32-36 large lemons:
  1. Lemons, pt 1: 
    • Microplane or zest lemons (finely mince zest if necessary)
    • Supreme and section, reserving the seeds and discarding all pith and membrane.
  2. Combine zest with lemon pulp into glass or earthenware container (my grandmother's Hull beanpot works great for this, you might use a tagine or Pyrex covered dish) with 8 T of sea salt. Let sit overnight. The lemon pulp will release plenty of juice!
  3. Lemons, pt 2: Zest, halve and juice enough lemons to get 2 cups of lemon juice
  4. The next day, strain the salty lemon pulp and zest, reserving the liquid. Divide evenly by weight using a kitchen scale (this was 3# 13 oz of pulp and zest in my case, with 2 c of juice), and put into two separate pots. Divide reserved juice evenly by volume into the two pots, as well as any  reserved extra zest.
  5. Mise-en-place for two batches of chutney as follows:



    Sweet(er)

    1.75 lb lemon zest &  pulp, prepared as above
    1 c fresh lemon juice
    1 c cider vinegar
    3 T finely minced fresh ginger

    1 c raisins
    1/2 - 3/4 c chopped dried apricots
    1/2 c currants

    2 c unrefined sugar (without molasses)
    1 c organic brown sugar


    1 t cayenne pepper flakes


    1 Tb salt

    Grind in spice grinder & add to pot 1 tsp each: hulled green cardamom, coriander, whole clove, whole allspice, fenugreek seed, yellow mustard seed


    Lemon & Sweet Red Pepper


    1.75 lb lemon zest &  pulp, prepared as above
    1 c fresh lemon juice
    1 c cider vinegar
    3 T finely minced fresh ginger

    2 oz minced garlic

    1 c raisins
    4 oz chopped sweet red pepper
    1 large white or yellow onion, chopped (about 8 oz)

    1 lb succanat (about 3 c)



    2 t cayenne pepper flakes

    1 Tb salt

    Grind in spice grinder & add to pot 1 tsp each: hulled green cardamom, white pepper, coriander, fenugreek, black mustard





  6. Put seeds into cheesecloth if there were a significant amount - otherwise, don't worry - it's a chutney and you don't need a ton of pectin to set it like a jam or jelly.
  7. Cook everything for 60 minutes or so until it reaches the right consistency.
  8. Remove cheesecloth with lemon seeds. Let sit overnight. Taste, adjust seasonings or ingredients (additional lemon juice, more ginger or chili, for example).
  9. Heat up, taste again, when satisfied, put into clean, hot mason jars and hot water bath can.

Yield: TBD

SWEET & FRUITY CHUTNEY


LEMON & SWEET RED PEPPER CHUTNEY

Wednesday, December 09, 2009

December Projects

MUSHROOMS! More rain this week - but also a bit of chill.  Heading out shortly to collect more chanterelles - put up a mere 2# in the freezer (done by dry sautee of thinly sliced mushrooms, reserving the juice they release to freeze, too). 


LEMONS are still in my kitchen, slowly getting juiced, frozen and even turned into lemonade & lemon drops.  I'm going to make up a couple batches of lemon chutney, but probably will create variations on my last two versions for sweet & savory lemon chutney -- of course I still have Hachiyas, but also still have some sweet red peppers and plenty of homemade cayenne pepper flakes.  I also plan to make up a batch of marmalade and some candied lemon peel.

DESSERT!  On Monday, I made a pair of apple pies - apple rum raisin with allspice (and somehow I'm out of allspice?) and apple strawberry with ginger.  I also still have key lime juice and plan to experiment with variations on a key lime pie recipe that I found in a thread on the Post Punk Kitchen forum that doesn't use tofu or packaged pudding, and am going to sub almond milk and coconut milk to make a key lime pie to bring along to my birthday tomorrow.

BIRTHDAY party is tomorrow at Encuentro, kicking off a weekend of good food and soaking in hot water.  At last weekend's 40th annual Fungus Fair, Scott & I splurged on a white truffle and a couple  winter black truffles at from the lovely wife of Todd, the King of Mushrooms.  I'm bringing the marble rolling pin, semolina flour and a hand crank pasta machine to make some pasta to go with those mushrooms on this weekend's get away, along with leftover birthday pie, chanterelles, homemade marinara sauce and a candy thermometer so I can make vegan caramels (why not?).

Thursday, December 03, 2009

Mushrooms & Lemons

MUSHROOMS: Yesterday I went out for another quick golden chanterelle harvest, returning home with two large, very mature, coccora (aka amanita lanei or amanita calyptoderma) and about 3# of golden chanterelles.  Since I held onto the coccora to show to my friend Eric in person for positive ID - they went mushy and I couldn't eat these "poor man's matszutake"

 


Don't forget - the Fungus Fair is this weekend - the 40th Annual Fungus Fair will be happening at Lawrence Hall of Science this year due to some work at the Oakland Museum.

LEMONS: After months of neglect, I went to my neighbors' backyard to harvest lemons from their very large, productive lemon tree.  There were softball size lemons - some of the juiciest lemons I know in the area - and tons of smaller green lemons.  As I picked, lemons were just jumping off the tree at me!  Fortunately, I only had to walk a block home with 95# of lemons in a backpack and two grocery bags.  I still have tons of limoncello from last year - but I guess it's time to make lemon marmelade, and soon, since I am going to be going out of town next weekend for my birthday and lemons won't keep indefinitely!

Look forward to some lemony goodness soon!

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Best Laid Plans...

Today, I planned to stay in and just catch up on blog postings and do my taxes. A plan was cooking, though, with Asiya from Forage Oakland to collect some grapefruits from the towering grapefruit tree on 51st near Broadway. This morning, I got laundry started and did some housework and headed out with Asiya where we collected about 75# of very large grapefruits. They are rather sooty from being so close to traffic, so I won't likely be candying the peel from these fruits.

Asiya had to go off to work, so I did more laundry, downloaded updates to Quicken so that I could install the new TurboTax and then headed out to ask about a lemon tree in Rockridge.

First stop, though, was to check on an enormous back yard grapefruit tree. I met one of the tenants of the building who gave me the phone number of the owners who live in the lower unit.

As I made my way up the next block, I saw a tiny old woman with long white braids and a knit cat sitting in the sun, and a sleek black cat who looked like Dobson sitting on the roof above her porch. I said hi and introduced myself - she asked where I was headed. When I said I was going after some lemons, she said "Do you want some Meyer lemons?" I accepted and said I'd return.

When I got to the end of the street, there was an old man sitting on a wheeled walker sort of thing - just watching the street and the people. "What are you working on?" he asked, I told him I was off to pick lemons.

At the house with the lemon tree, I was enthusiastically received by the owner of the house, Steven - he said I could pick as many as I wanted. The tree is very prolific and there's never a shortage. I told him about Asiya's project and the article that Michael Pollan's student wrote for tomorrow's Chron, and he was excited. "I heard about a project like that in Berkeley, I'd love to be introduced!" He also mentioned that he has Hachiyas, apples and plums in his back yard, and admired my fruit picker. "I've been needing to get one of those," he said.

I started picking lemons while Steven went to write his e-mail and phone for me. His three blonde kids (all under 6) waved and watched me from the window. Within 15 minutes, I filled two big canvas bags and started back toward Ruthie's house, offering lemons to some neighbors across the street who were doing yardwork (and I still brought home 40# of softball size Eureka lemons).

At the corner, I stopped to talk with the old man - he asked about my lemons but didn't want any. I noticed a miniature harmonica on a chain on his neck and he asked about my birthday - since December was close enough, he played "Happy Birthday" for me. His name is Howell (and his birthday is November 9). We talked about cooking and food - he said that at 95, he doesn't eat a lot but I think he does hang out on the corner in the sun when weather permits.

As I walked down the block with my fruit picker and two big bags of lemons, I saw Ruthie getting up to go inside. She had me follow her into the house and we talked. She raised 5 kids, "So we needed a big house." She is 87 and a tiny delicate thing who hasn't left her house in 10 years. Two daughters live nearby to visit, a son lives in England where he is a professor. She has a caretaker living upstairs who does her groceries and errands (and has the sleek black cat). She emigrated from Germany just before Hitler's rise, the whole family was safe though her father died before they left.

She showed me to the back yard and we picked Meyer lemons, and she offered me to pick some oranges too. She asked me about my family, whether I had children, we talked about world population and food crises. I told her about Asiaya's project and she seemed enthusiastic - she said she would be happy to have us visit next week to pick oranges.

Yay! Three new places to harvest citrus! I will be writing up some back-dated posts later tonight - after I finish washing and squeezing and zesting all these lemons and grapefruits, complete my taxes and bring in and put away my dry laundry.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

A Bad Winter for Growing Things but Everyone Likes Lemonade!

MUSHROOMS FORAGING/COOKING: As much as I enjoy 68 degrees and 83% humidity, that is not good mushroom growing weather. If we don't get rain, I may not have much of a garden, either.

James made good use of some of those golden chanterelles last weekend - he made oven roasted breakfast potatoes with golden chanterelles, garlic, fresh herbs and pine nuts that was just outstanding.

This weekend is the "Winter Mushroom" cooking class at Millennium Restaurant. I'm assisting chef Eric Tucker and will be leading a mushroom foraging trip after the morning visit to the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market. If you're interested in the class, call Erica at 415.345.3900 x11 to see if there are any spaces left!

GARDENING: Saturday, I pulled up all my stakes and dead tomato plants, stacked tomato cages and built a potato condo (I promise a photo!). The potato condo needs a bit more dirt. I bought a bunch of red and yellow potatoes at Farmer Joe's in the Laurel District -- they had some nice baby Yukons which I hope will sprout so I can plant them in the potato condo. Garlic still is not in - I have to decide where I will put that.

Sunday, I helped James pull up his garden, too. He also harvested a big pile of purple carrots which seem to taste a lot sweeter without the purple skin.

LEMONS and other backyard citrus are in full swing. Tonight I zested 25 lemons with a microplane and poured 1.75 L bottle of 190 proof Ever Clear that my friends brought down from Portland -- I couldn't bring it on the airplane with me when I bought it there in November because it is a fire hazard.

I also made a killer pitcher of lemonade - and I am leaving 2 cups of lemon juice in the fridge so I can make another batch without defrosting cubes. I think I'll have a lot of nice lemony Vitamin C this week to combat all the bugs that seem to go around the office. Might be time to ask Barbara if I can pick more of her gorgeous Valencia oranges with my fruit picker.

DEHYDRATOR ACTION! This past week I have embarked on several flaxseed cracker experiments which have turned out quite well. First two batches were garlic/curry/cashew/flaxseed and orange curry catsup/black sesame/flaxseed. The next savory batch was homemade dried tomatoes with flaxseed, nutritional yeast, oregano, rosemary and thyme. I have raw cacao powder/agave/almond/flaxseed in the dryer right now. I just don't think there's a lot you can do "wrong" when it comes to making flaxseed crackers. I'll post some more actual recipes in a separate entry.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Late Summer Bonanza

I owe a few posts - I have some started, and have some photos but haven't actually finished them up. The solar dehydrator is done, and late summer produce is kicking into high gear. My tomatoes are really taking off -- I made raw vegetable lasagna for my Labor Day Weekend getaway.
  • Last week, I juiced about 15# of Eureka lemons from Regan's yard.
  • Saturday, James and I decanted the plum-ginger and apricot infused vodkas.
  • James' friend has an Asian pear and a Meyer lemon in her backyard, so Sunday we juiced a big paper grocery sack of about 20# of Asian pears and got a gallon of juice which we put away in his freezer in quart bags.
  • After the juicefest, we went to clean off the Asian pear and Meyer trees, leaving us with about 20# of Asian pears and 15# of large Meyer lemons. Then we went to another friend's house and got 36# of quince.
  • Monday, we processed about 8# (a packed full paper grocery sack) of basil from James' yard and he made basil-pistachio and basil-pine nut pesto to freeze.
  • Tonight I'm working on the quince -- I have 10# of quince chopped and simmering for jelly, and another 5# for membrill0 -- 10# are going to Asiya at Forage Oakland and another 5# are going to a coworker who wants to make membrillo. The other 5# will be turned into a vodka infusion.
I've been busy. I swear, half-written posts with photos will magically reveal on this blog soon.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Moroccan Preserved Lemons

LEMONS ABOUND IN CALIFORNIA. It seems like everyone has a lemon tree - except me. Fortunately, none of those folks know what to do with all their lemons and they are more than happy to have some help clearing lemons off the tree so they don't have to pick up moldy lemons from the ground.

HPIM1298

I like to juice up a big pile of lemons and freeze the juice in ice cube trays. I also save the zest and freeze it -- it's very usable for other recipes this way. Of course, there's the lemon chutney, lemon bars, and preserved Moroccan lemons.

When I first researched this, I found a lot of recipes out there -- the process is fairly straight forward and simple, varying only in quantities and spices.

For spices, pick your spices based on what you have at hand and when it comes to dried spices, make sure that what you have that isn't a million years old (throw out the old stuff in the compost heap). I used cinnamon, black pepper, cloves, coriander seed and bay. Check the different recipes for quantities and add to taste. Experiment with different levels of spices in different jars -- it's up to you!

PROCESS:
  1. Sterilize your mason jars. Put some of the spices in the bottom of the clean jars, along with a couple tablespoons of salt. Save the cinnamon sticks and some of the other spices to add between the layers.
  2. Scrub your lemons very well. Trim any bad spots & trim off the stem end.
  3. Cut your lemon lengthwise almost to the end, then turn it over and cut from the other direction so it is quartered but still attached at both ends.
  4. Stuff as much kosher or sea salt into your lemon, then smash it into a sterilized mason jar using a wooden pestle -- press it down into the jar to get it to release more lemon.
  5. Add another layer of salt, a sprinkle of dried spices, and another salt-stuffed lemon.
  6. Once the jar has enough lemons, press them down and release more juice. Pour more freshly squeezed lemon juice on top to cover. Slide in the bay and the cinnamon along the side of the jar, and get the bubbles out with a butter knife or thin spatula.
The lemons I preserved in the last batch were from my sister's lemon tree -- the lemons are softball size. I found that I could get two of these monsters into a pint, but it was a struggle getting them in there (releasing a lot of juice in the process).

Screw on the lids and put aside for a few weeks. These should be ready in 4-6 weeks.

Remember:
  • Pull lemons out using a clean utensil, not your fingers or any utensil that has been used on something else.
  • Add more lemon juice and lemons as you go along -- if you squeeze a lemon, throw the squeezed (squoze?) half into the jar and push down. The brine and juice will do their thing and you can keep a jar going for a while.
Recipe links:

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Lemon Chutney -- Kitchen Tools, Sugar & Recipe Modifications

ZESTING LEMONS: First, I cannot stress how important it is to use a microplane or some ergonomically-friendly item to zest 3 dozen lemons. I was up until 2AM zesting, supreming and sectioning lemons. This morning, I remembered I had bought a microplane - it was hanging on my baker's rack, laughing at me.

SUGAR: After reviewing the recipe, and retasting the last bit of chutney from the last batch, I considered my fruit and sugar options for this round. So many chutney recipes call for brown sugar -- this is basically white sugar mixed in with the molasses that was taken out of it to make it dry and white. I usually use unrefined cane sugar in my house, as well as dehydrated sugar cane in these forms:

  • unrefined cane sugar: looks like white sugar but it's more tan in color. This is not whitened through bone char and considerably less processed than white sugar.
  • demerara sugar: sugar cane juice that is centrifuged to make nice big crystals. It has more molasses than unrefined cane sugar.
  • rapadura & sucanat: both dehydrated, powdered forms of unrefined sugar cane juice, containing all the molasses and sugar. I'm not entirely clear on how different these two are from each other and am still experimenting.
  • blackstrap molasses: this is the gooey black/brown stuff that is left when the sugar cane solids are separated from it.
  • organic brown sugar: unrefined cane sugar with some of the molasses mixed back into it.

RECIPE MODIFICATION: I decided to make two batches. One batch would be "sweeter" -- and I used organic/vegan brown sugar. The other would be more "savory" with onions, more garlic, chili flakes and demerara sugar and a small amount of blackstrap molasses.

IMGP7123

As I mentioned, I originally mostly followed a chutney recipe from Laura Colwin's cookbook. This time, I made a lot of changes. First of all -- I was working with a lot more lemons. I quadrupled the recipe and then halved it. After prepping 32 lemons, I realized I didn't have enough lemons left over to make 2 cups of additional lemon juice, so I went up to my friend Regan's house and picked another sack of lemons. This was a bit more work -- I zested the lemons before juicing them, grabbed any loose bits of pulp from the lemons and the juicer, and also saved the seeds to add to the chutney in cheesecloth later.

Supremed and Sectioned Lemons
Supremed lemon IMGP7122

Lemon Pulp in the Pot
IMGP7113
  1. Lemons, pt 1: Zest, supreme and section 32 lemons, reserving the seeds and discarding all pith and membrane.
  2. Finely mince zest, and add with lemon pulp into glass or earthenware container (my grandmother's Hull beanpot works great for this, you might use a tagine or Pyrex covered dish) with 8 T of sea salt. Let sit overnight. The lemon pulp will release plenty of juice!
  3. Lemons, pt 2: Zest, halve and juice enough lemons to get 2 cups of lemon juice (in my case, this was 15 of Regan's lemons -- many didn't have seeds, so I think they were a bit underripe but still tasted plenty lemony). Reserve the seeds with the other seeds and divide the zest into two equal portions.
  4. The next day, strain the salty lemon pulp and zest, reserving the liquid. Divide evenly by weight using a kitchen scale (this was 3# of pulp and zest in my case, with 2.5 c of juice), and put into two separate pots. Divide reserved juice evenly by volume into the two pots, as well as the reserved extra zest.
  5. Mise-en-place for two batches of chutney as follows:




    Sweet(er)
    1 c fresh lemon juice
    1 c cider vinegar
    3 T finely minced fresh ginger

    minced garlic 8 cloves (1.25 oz)

    1 c currants
    1/2 c finely chopped dates
    1/2 c finelychopped dried figs

    1.5 lb organic brown sugar

    1/2 Ceylon cinnamon stick (leave whole in chutney)
    1 t cayenne powder

    Toast Spices, then grind:
    2 t black cardamom seeds (from green cardamom pods)
    2 t coriander seed
    1.5 t dried red pepper flakes
    1 t whole clove
    1 t whole allspice
    1 t fenugreek seed


    Savory
    1 c fresh lemon juice
    1 c cider vinegar
    3 T finely minced fresh ginger

    minced garlic 12 cloves (2.5 oz)

    1 c raisins
    1/2 c finely chopped dried apricot
    1 large yellow onion, chopped

    1.5 lb demerara sugar
    1/4 c blackstrap molasses

    2 bay leaves (leave whole in chutney)
    1 t cayenne powder

    Toast Spices, then grind:
    2 t black cardamom seeds (from green cardamom pods)
    2 t coriander seed
    2 t dried red pepper flakes
    1/2 t black pepper
    1/2 t brown mustard seed


  6. The spices are pretty labor intensive -- if you haven't bought hulled cardamom, put the green cardamom pods into your mortar/pestle and bust them open until you have enough. Toast the spices -- except the cayenne (believe me - you don't want to breathe that in!). Once they toast and the coriander starts popping, put them in your mortar & pestle and grind as finely as you can, or put into a spice mill/coffee grinder.
  7. Cook everything for 60 minutes or so until it reaches the right consistency.
  8. Remove cheesecloth with lemon seeds. Let sit overnight. Taste, make any corrections (additional lemon juice, more ginger or chili, for example).
  9. Heat up, taste again, when satisfied, put into clean, hot mason jars and hot water bath can.

Yield:

SWEET(ER) LEMON CHUTNEY
6 - 4 oz
2 - 8 oz

SAVORY LEMON CHUTNEY
7 - 4 oz
2 - 8 oz


I have to admit -- the sweet(er) version surprised me. The chopped figs really thickened up the chutney and it is very fruity and yet very lemony. The savory version definitely has a kick to it. The sweeter version is much darker in color (the figs and dates, to be sure). Both are pretty darned tasty.

PEACHES: I managed to cook down the peaches and have a full half gallon jug and a 2/3 half gallon jug of the juice, and a big pot of fruit. I'm letting it cool so I can make jam and jelly tomorrow while canning the chutney. Apricots are still in the refrigerator.

My brother visited and brought Indian food this evening. I'm hopeful that he'll come over and help me tomorrow night by assembling the pieces for the solar dehydrator. He knows how to straighten slightly warped 1" x 2" pieces! He was taking pictures of my stacks of jars of jelly and inside my refrigerator for "proof" that I'm turning into Grandma Clark.